Joetsu – at Winter’s End.

I enjoyed a one day tour of the Joetsu area in Niigata as winter was fading away. I had my head buried in work and suddenly it was lifted from the bog. Streets recently smothered in black ice were drying up as the sun beamed down from a clear, blue sky. We first visited “Gangidori”, an historical street and found it sitting quietly still, under the melting snow. Young people first walked here with plans and dreams and decades came and went like days. I’m sure the footpaths provide passage for us now and will do for others to shelter through the snow seasons to come long after we’re gone.

 Quiet and still and present.

From these streets, we then visited Takada Castle Site Park. The park is surrounded by moats and canals, that, on this day, were still holding on to the freeze. Beautiful, thin shelves of ice glistened over the surface of the water in the late morning sunlight with a scattering of ducks and walkways linked by bridges meandering around the castle, which stood wondrously overlooking the grounds from her centre stage. All framed by distant mountains seemingly etched on frosted glass. 

Then, of course it was lunch time. Kanzuri Nabe. Delicious, warming, and energizing. I imagined it like a roasted noodle. The texture was thick, but not heavy. Hmmn. Just one more, please.

Nourished and refreshed, we arrived at the oldest winery in Japan. Iwanohara Vineyard in Joetsu is a story of determination and dedication and I recommend a tour to the store rooms where you can stand and listen to the history of the surrounding walls and feel the atmosphere of the ripening of time. Again, the frozen winters and rainy summers gift the soil with riches from the past for the palette of palates for the future. Be prepared to depart with an arm full of souvenirs.

We took a short break and stood out on the  roads between the wide unused rice fields of winter and marveled at the glare of the mountains. Then we trekked to Kasugayama Shrine. It’s a beautiful shrine with spacious grounds weaving into the mountains. We climbed a tall stairway to a Tori gate at the top and were greeted by numerous Kami overseeing our visit. It is so fortunate to feel so welcomed and protected as the distant travelers we are, and I am grateful for such peace and wisdom bestowed upon me. I hope I can somehow express my gratitude and my respect. I hope my story and pictures can do justice in portraying such important cultural, and natural beauty on this earth. 



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